KATHMANDU: This spring season, two American alpinists achieved the historic feat of making the first successful ascent of Tengkangpoche peak via the north face route, as confirmed by the expedition organizers. Patrick Perry Johnson and Patrick Michael Gephart reached the summit of the peak on April 23 around 3:30 PM, having climbed the mountain without the assistance of climbing guides.
According to Sonam Sherpa, the Managing Director at Itrek Everest Pvt. Ltd., this achievement marks the inaugural ascent of Tengkangpoche via the north face route in an alpine style. Team leader Perry Johnson recounted their journey, mentioning that upon their arrival at the Sunshine Lodge in Thame, they were presented with relatively dry conditions on the north face of Tengkangpoche. After thorough assessment, they selected a route that comprised various sections of ice and mixed terrain deemed safe for climbing. The expedition commenced on April 5.
Johnson described their climb, stating that after a bivouac at around 15,000 feet, they began the ascent at 4:30 AM. They encountered sections of easy ice leading to a smear of ice on a clean rock face, which they climbed in two pitches at WI3+. They continued upwards, navigating through sections of ice and mixed terrain separated by steep snow. After enduring a challenging night at 6000 meters due to relentless wind, clear weather allowed them to proceed along the east ridge towards the summit. Despite obstacles such as seracs and crevasses, they successfully reached the summit at 3:30 PM, amid clouds.
Following their triumph, the team descended through the night, eventually returning to 15,000 feet and making their way back to Thame. Johnson remarked on the uniqueness of their climb, dubbing it "Sunshine Spring Roll, WI3+/M3 Steep Snow, 1500 meters," emphasizing the exceptional conditions they encountered during their ascent.
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